Falling in Love With the Capital
“Walk as if you are kissing the Earth with your feet.” – Thich Nhat Hanh
Vietnam draws you in immediately—not just with its landscapes, but with its legends that seem to whisper through the mountains.
Within only hours of our arrival while sitting in a random restaurant in Hanoi’s old quarter, I turned to Bas and told him that I want to move here. Hanoi has a lot to offer, be it delicious food, a stunning scenery, a vibrant city with all the amenities, and beautiful, kind, and friendly people.
Escaping to the Mountains of Sa Pa
Vietnam is more than just Hanoi, though. While I like vibrant cities with all their amenities, disconnecting from life is best done in the mountains.
We spent three days of our time in Vietnam in a mountain village outside of Sa Pa. We disconnected from our daily life, explored sights like the Heavenly Gates and the Love Waterfall, had a cooking class, and went down an alpine coaster (slowly).
Above all, we were welcomed as part of the family at our guesthouse and, after three days, felt truly at home.
While Sa Pa town is a rather busy place with a lot of restaurants and quite touristic in nature, the villages sprawling along the ridgeline are calm and relaxing.
A Love Story Written in the Mountains
What I often do when travelling to new countries is looking for local legends, myths, and fairytales.
The differences but also similarities in the storytelling excites me, and indeed, we found one at the Heavenly Gates I want to tell you about:
Legend of Ô Quy Hồ Pass
Ô Quy Hồ Pass, one of the “Four Great Passes” of Vietnam’s northwest region, is not only known for its breathtaking scenery but also for a timeless love story.
According to legend, Ô Quy Hồ was the son of the Mountain God. He loved the beauty of nature and had a gift for playing the flute. Instead of following in his father’s footsteps, he chose to live among humans, wandering the mountains and pouring his soul into music.
One day, the seventh fairy descended from the heavens. Enchanted by the sound of Ho’s flute echoing across the peaks, she sought him out. The two met, fell deeply in love, and shared countless days together beneath an ancient oak tree on the pass.
But their love defied the heavens. The Jade Emperor forbade the fairy from returning to Ô Quy Hồ. Heartbroken, she was transformed into a golden bird, forever flying over the pass and singing her sorrow. Ho, too, was cursed — turned into a silent turtle that remained by the mountainside.
The haunting cry of the bird echoed through the valleys, and travelers believed it to be the fairy mourning her lost love. Moved by the tale, people named the pass Ô Quy Hồ, as a reminder of the eternal love story etched into its winds and cliffs.
Stories That Shape a Culture
Often, stories like these tell you a lot about the country and the culture. Themes tend to circulate around love and longing.
While we were exploring, we watched a wedding party take gorgeous pictures in the area around the Love Waterfall. They are not only taking them there because of the naturally stunning location but also because of the legend of Ô Quy Hô.
Some words of advice for the introverted, easily overstimulated traveler:
Stay outside the town center. Sa Pa itself can be crowded and touristy, but guesthouses in nearby villages are quieter, more authentic, and give you breathing space.
Build in downtime. After a busy trek or sightseeing, plan slow mornings, a quiet tea, or time to journal so you don’t burn out.
Choose immersive experiences in small groups. A cooking class at someone’s home or chatting with your hosts can feel more rewarding (and less overwhelming) than big tours.
Carry little grounding tools. A notebook, headphones, or even a comfort snack can help regulate when things get too stimulating.
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